Can collagen help menopausal skin?

Collagen supplements are popular but they can be pricey – we investigate whether they’re worth trying

• Collagen is the main building block of your skin
• Levels of collagen plummet during the perimenopause and menopause
• Collagen supplements and skincare are potential treatments

Hands up if you’ve heard good things about collagen supplements for skin, started to research them, then got completely confused? You’re not alone. Since 2016 online searches for collagen supplements have increased significantly, according to Google Trends, and in the UK the collagen market size is expected to grow from £20.4 million in 2023 to £28.8 million in 2028 [1].

Many of us know friends or relatives who’ve tried collagen powders, capsules, liquids or skincare products, or you might have tried them yourself. Just as reasons for taking collagen supplement can vary – some women take them for potential muscle mass, bone health and joint pain benefits, while others are hoping for skin, hair and nails benefits – so too can people’s experiences. Some women swear by them, others aren’t convinced.

With age comes wisdom, and possibly healthy cynicism – in a YouGov study of more than 2,000 adults, just 13% of those aged over 55 believed collagen supplements could be beneficial, compared to 33% of 18-24 year olds [2]. Women aged 45-54 are a little more hopeful – 23% believed they could be beneficial.

To find out if collagen supplements can help your skin during perimenopause and beyond, it’s important to understand a little more about this protein. Collagen gives your skin support and structure. It’s the most abundant protein in your body but its production can be negatively affected by sun exposure, smoking, excess alcohol, sleep deprivation and lack of exercise.

Your genes can affect collagen production but the main factor is age. Surprisingly, collagen levels begin to decrease in your 20s, as does the quality of the collagen.

How does menopause affect collagen production?

While ageing triggers a gradual decrease in production of collagen, the perimenopause and menopause bring a dramatic shift.

Dr Anjali Mahto, a consultant dermatologist and founder of dermatology clinic Self London, says: ‘During perimenopause and menopause, oestrogen levels in the body decline significantly. Oestrogen plays a key role in maintaining skin health, particularly in promoting collagen production, which is essential for skin structure, elasticity, and hydration. As oestrogen decreases, collagen production slows down, leading to a reduction in skin thickness and elasticity.

‘Studies show that women can lose up to 30 per cent of their collagen in the first five years after menopause. This contributes to the development of fine lines, wrinkles, and skin sagging. Additionally, skin may become drier and more prone to injury or irritation due to the breakdown of the collagen framework.’

If you’re experiencing other menopausal symptoms and decide to take HRT, you may see skin benefits. Studies have shown that taking HRT for around five years of HRT can increase skin thickness by 7-15% [3]. ‘While this may help skin appear plumper, it may have important functional benefits too,’ says consultant dermatologist Dr Sajjad Rajpar.

Can collagen supplements help?

There is a wide array of collagen supplements available – marine, bovine, and even vegan (although collagen doesn’t exist in plants these supplements contain amino acids that are the building blocks of collagen). The idea behind them isn’t so much that collagen will provide support to your skin, rather that when the collagen enters your bloodstream, your body thinks there has been a collagen breakdown. The theory is that it responds by signalling to fibroblasts to boost production of collagen.

The evidence of their efficacy is limited, as Dr Anjal explains: ‘At present, there is no conclusive scientific evidence that collagen supplements significantly slow skin ageing. While some studies suggest that collagen supplements, particularly marine collagen, may improve skin hydration and elasticity, the data remains limited and not fully robust. Many of these studies are small scale or industry funded, which raises concerns about bias. Marine collagen, specifically, has shown some promising results, but larger, independent studies are needed to confirm its effectiveness. Until more comprehensive, peer-reviewed research is available, it’s difficult to make definitive claims about the benefits of collagen supplements for skin ageing.’

So, what if you have friends who swear by their collagen supplements? It’s quite possible that skin can improve, but it may not necessarily be down to increased production of collagen. There’s also no evidence that collagen supplements cause harm, although people with food allergies, particularly fish or shellfish, and histamine intolerance or sensitivity should avoid them or be cautious in their choice.

Dr Anjali adds: ‘It’s understandable that some women may be curious about trying collagen supplements, especially after hearing positive anecdotes from friends. If you choose to try them, approach with realistic expectations and a cautious mindset. Select products from reputable brands that are transparent about their ingredients and have undergone third-party testing for quality and safety.’

What about topical collagen?

There are also plenty of skincare products available that contain collagen. Dr Anjali cautions: ‘Collagen molecules in skincare products are generally too large to penetrate the epidermis and reach the dermis, where new collagen is produced. As a result, applying collagen topically is unlikely to help with collagen production or skin structure at a deeper level. Instead, collagen in skincare products may provide surface-level benefits, such as improved hydration and a temporary smoothing effect, by forming a film on your skin.’

You can, however, help to boost collagen production in your skin. ‘Ingredients such as retinoids, vitamin C, and peptides can stimulate your skin’s natural collagen synthesis,’ says Dr Anjali.

Introduce active ingredients such as retinol gradually and apply sunscreen daily to prevent further collagen loss from the sun’s UV radiation. 

How else can I boost collagen?

Bone broth is often touted for its collagen content but the body breaks down ingested collagen into amino acids, which are then used wherever needed, not necessarily for your skin,’ says Dr Anjali. ‘Instead, focus on having a well-rounded diet rich in protein from sources like lean meats, fish, eggs, legumes, and plant-based proteins as this provides the essential building blocks for collagen.’

Dr Anjali Mahto is a consultant dermatologist and founder of dermatology clinic Self London: www.selflondon.com 

Dr Sajjad Rajpar is a consultant dermatologist and founder of Midland Skin: www.midlandskin.co.uk

References

1. Mordor Intelligence
2. YouGov poll for The Grocer, Aug 2022
3. Callens A, Vaillant L, Lecomte P, Berson M, Gall Y, Lorette G. Does hormonal skin aging exist? A study of the influence of different hormone therapy regimens on the skin of postmenopausal women using non-invasive measurement techniques. Dermatology. 1996;193(4):289-94. doi: 10.1159/000246272. PMID: 8993951.